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A Vagabond in the Caucasus With Some Notes of His Experiences Among the Russians

A Vagabond in the Caucasus
With Some Notes of His Experiences Among the Russians
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Title: A Vagabond in the Caucasus With Some Notes of His Experiences Among the Russians
Release Date: 2019-02-21
Type book: Text
Copyright Status: Public domain in the USA.
Date added: 27 March 2019
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A VAGABOND IN
THE CAUCASUS


TOMB OF A CAUCASIAN CHIEF, SHOWING WHAT HE DIED POSSESSED
OF INCLUDING THE ACTUAL NUMBER OF HIS CARTRIDGES


A VAGABOND IN
THE CAUCASUS
WITH SOME NOTES OF HIS EXPERIENCES
AMONG THE RUSSIANS
BY STEPHEN GRAHAM  ❦  ❦  ❦
WITH SIXTEEN ILLUSTRATIONS
AND TWO MAPS  ❦  ❦   ❦  ❦
LONDON JOHN LANE THE BODLEY HEAD
NEW YORK JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMXI

Turnbull & Spears, Printers, Edinburgh

v

CONTENTS

CHAP.   PAGE
  Prologue: How I came to be a Tramp 3
 
I. Robbed in the Train 15
 
II. Christmas in Little Russia 24
 
III. Mummers at a Country House 38
 
IV. At Uncle’s 52
 
V. Among Moscow Students 60
 
VI. Love us when we are Dirty, for everyone will love us when we are Clean! 73
 
VII. A Night at a Shrine 83
 
VIII. The Day after the Feast 94
 
IX. A Mushroom Fair in Lent 101
 
X. Departure from Moscow 108
 
XI. The Coming of Summer in the Caucasus 117
 
XII. The Epistle to the Caucasians 124
 
XIII. A Mountain Dawn 131
 
XIV. Among the Ingooshi 138
 
XV. The Iron not made by Hands 149
 
XVI. At a Mill on the Terek 156
 
XVII. The Gorge of Dariel 163
 
viXVIII. At a Village Inn 167
 
XIX. Through Snow and Ice 172
 
XX. Lavrenti Cham Khotadze 176
 
XXI. On the Road to Tiflis 182
 
XXII. A Two-Hundred-Mile Walk 188
 
XXIII. Climbing into Winter 194
 
XXIV. A Night in a Koutan 199
 
XXV. Over Mamison 204
 
XXVI. Arrested 210
 
XXVII. Five Days under Arrest 216
 
XXVIII. Mr Adam 224
 
XXIX. The Baptist Chapel 235
 
XXX. The Woman who saw God 243
 
XXXI. Ali Pasha 248
 
XXXII. The Sorrowing Man 255
 
XXXIII. The Cucumber Fair 262
 
XXXIV. Over the Caucasus 271
 
  Epilogue: The Horizon 285
 
  Appendix: How to get About—a Chapter for Prospective Tourists 301
 
  Index 309

vii

ILLUSTRATIONS

1. Tomb of a Caucasian Chief, showing what he died Possessed of, including the Actual Number of his Cartridges Frontispiece
 
2. a. Harbour, Nizhni Novgorod 8
 
  b. Outside a Slum Beerhouse, Moscow 8
 
3. a. A Russian Street Scene 58
 
  b. A Caucasian Chief 58
 
4. a. A Street Shrine, Moscow 82
 
  b. Passion Monastery, Moscow 82
 
5. A Group of Caucasian Shepherds 120
 
6. Ingoosh Women, with Water-Jar 140
 
7. Kazbek Mountain from the North-West 156
 
8. Dariel Gorge: Castle of Queen Tamara and Russian Fortress 166
 
9. Akhtsauri Glacier, Kazbek 174
 
10. Georgian Women 182
 
11. A Koutan 200
 
12. An Ossetine Dwelling 214
 
13. Devdorak Glacier, Gorge of Dariel 242
 
14. a.Turning over Cottons 262
 
  b. An Ossetine Village 262
 
15. Kazbek Posting-Station 272
 
16. Mleti 282

MAPS

Map of Russia 26
 
Map of Vladikavkaz and District 128

ixA VAGABOND IN
THE CAUCASUS

xNOTE

Portions of Chapters VI., VII., IX., XI., XXVIII. appearedoriginally in articles contributed to Country Life, and ChapterXXII. and parts of II., X., XXXIII. in articles contributed tothe Pall Mall Gazette, to the Editors of which journals the authordesires to make all due acknowledgment.


3A VAGABOND IN
THE CAUCASUS

PROLOGUE
 
HOW I CAME TO BE A TRAMP

I BROUGHT myself up on Carlyle and found himthe dearest, gentlest, bravest, noblest man.The Life by Froude was dearer to me than theGospel of St Matthew, or Hamlet, or Macbeth,and that is saying much if the reader only knew me.Carlyle was so near that I saw him in dreams and spokewith him in words that were true, unquestionably. Inthe vision world of my dream he behaved exactly as hewould have done in real life, I am sure of it.

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