Tent life with English Gipsies in Norway
TENT LIFE WITH
ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NORWAY.
ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NORWAY.
MEMBER OF THE ENGLISH ALPINE CLUB; NORSKE TURIST FORENING;
AND FELLOW OF THE HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF GREAT BRITAIN.
FIVE FULL-PAGE ENGRAVINGS, THIRTY-ONE SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS,
AND MAP OF THE COUNTRY, SHOWING ROUTES.
Henry S. King & Co.,
65, Cornhill, & 12, Paternoster Row, London.
[The Right of Translation is reserved by the Author.]
We awoke one morning; our gipsies were gone;our camp was gone; no light shining through as welay in our tent. No freshness of the morning air;no wafted perfume of fragrant wild flowers; no musicof the waterfall in the glen below. We were left topursue the pathway of our journey alone.
Yet our notes de voyage remained to us. Impressionscaught on the wayside of travel—written bythe light of actual circumstance—we give them toour readers. They are a true episode in a life.
|Norway—Our gipsy tent—Tent fittings—Cooking apparatus—Commissariat—Gipsies’ tent—Bagage de luxe—Weight of baggage—Transit—Donkeys—Our party—Esmeralda||1|
|Gipsy equipment—Norwegian gipsies—Prœsten Eilert Sundt—The Hull steamer—The tourist’s friend—Our gipsy song||11|
|A friend’s misgiving—Dark forebodings—A sleepless night—The railway station—The Albion—A philosopher—The street boy—Distinguished travellers||19|
|England’s farewell—Summer tourists—The chevalier—Seafaring—A gipsy reception—Change of plans—Norwegian pilot—The Birmingham bagman—Inducement to authorship—Strange wills—A sailor’s philosophy—Icelandic language—Prognostications||26|
|A seaman’s adventures—The unfortunate tourist-An apt quotation—Freemasonry—Christiansand—Past recollections—The Runic stone—Overpayment—Two salmon fishermen—A traveller’s curiosity—Norwegian snakes—Scenery—We are one—Golden opinions||36x|
|Mariner’s life—The evasive answer—A true presentiment—The King of Norway and Sweden—The beautiful fjord—Gipsy music—A custom-house difficulty—Another Freemason—Appropriate verses Christiania—Horse money—17, Store Strandgade||46|
|The Victoria Hotel—The Gipsies’ friend—The passe-partout-Prœsten Eilert Sundt—The Christiania railway—Our donkeys appreciated—Gipsy spirit—The “tolk”—Norwegian money—Linguistic difficulties—Gipsy authors—Gipsy numerals—Departure from Christiania||54|
|A Norwegian officer—Norwegian emigration—Eidsvold—The Skydskiftet—Quiet retreat—Happy hours—Baiersk öl—Esmeralda’s toilette—The transformation—Curious address—New acquaintance—Noah’s engagement—Noah’s conquest—An ungrateful visitor—A reluctant parting||64|
|Moderate bill—Provisions lost—We meet again—Gipsies in advance—Left alone—A welcome telegram—Norwegian bath room—Singular paintings—Once more farewell—The telegraph clerk—The Mjösen Lake—The Dronningen—Ruined cathedral—Utilitarianism—Lillehammer—Once more in camp||75|
|Our first camp—Camp visitors—Gipsy music-Foreign tableau—Curious observations—Preparations for departure—Early start—Laing’s suggestions—The Gudbransdalen—The Hunnefos—The Australian meat—Camp rules—The pair of gloves—Sudden Shadows—Our talisman—New friends||89|
|Night alarm—The Puru Rawnee—Donkeys admired—Norwegian ponies—Our gipsy life—Norwegian flowers—Wild forest—The pipe of tobacco—Pictures of imagination—The crippled man—Camp near Holmen—Noah’s self-denial—Wet night—Peasant girls’ serenade—Zachariah’s gaiety—Lovely nature—Norwegian newspaper—The mystery explained—Frokost spoilt||102xi|
|Unsuccessful fishing—A military officer—The dernier ressort—Our gipsy reception—Interrupted toilette—Fête champêtre—Dancing on the greensward—Tincture of cedar—The disappointment—The Losna Vand—The kettle prop lost—Peasant children—Interesting discussions—Writing under difficulties—The kindly heart||118|
|Wet travelling—Vodvang—Our Russian lamp—Swedish visitors—All well—Our hobbinengree—The child of nature—Guitar songs—The village beau—Merles gone—The musketos’ victory—More rain—Scotch traveller—Timber floaters—Gipsies—Enraged Englishman—The frightened skydskarl—Gipsies’ endurance—The Listari commotion—Listad scenery||129|
|A gorgio—Comfortable bondegaards—More speile—The lost key—Den Asen toujours—Vegetable substitute—The goodlo discussion—Wives’ utility—Friendly peasants—Norwegian waltz—Gipsy chaff—The dark woman—Anxious querists—Early visitors—Timid woman—Gipsies appreciated—The charming post-mistress—The mansion near Harpe Brö||145|
|The velocipede—Roadside halt—Lovely scenery—Disappointed audience—The little gipsy—The lost pocket—The search—Gipsy lamentation—Amused peasant girls—Norwegian honesty—The pocket found—A noble heart—Pleasant voyageurs—Patrins—Storklevstad—Tambourine lost—Norwegian honesty—Eccentric visits—Interrogatory—The captain—The interview—The village magnate—Meget godt—Esmeralda in camp—The last visit—The moorland maiden||158|
|Colonel Sinclair—Qvam church—Death of Sinclair—Monsieur le Capitaine—The Highflyer—The Hedals—Romantic legend—Antique mansion—The Kringelen—Kind reception—Warm welcome—The broken tent-pole—The reindeer hunter—The Rudane Fjelde—Gipsy-looking woman—More fish—Chiromancy Esmeralda’s fortune—The handsome captain—His sporting adventure—Esmeralda’s gift—Our soirée dansante—Gipsies’ glee||174xii|
|Gipsies’ affection—Laurgaard adieu—Beautiful gorges—Onward ever—Esmeralda’s Irish song—Dovre—Friendly travellers—The Landhandelri—The Herr Tofte—King’s visit—Our night camp—Night disturbance—Kindness to animals—Our beautiful bouquet—Snehætten Fjeld—Dombaas—Comfortable situation—Wild scenery—Opportune visit—Illusory hope||190|
|The new tent pole—What is indigestion?—Peasants at camp—A new friend—Holaker station—Norwegian honesty—Lœsje Vand—The tetteramengry—An unsolved mystery—The gipsy collapse—Good advice—Interest in donkeys—A mountain district—No church bells—The boy’s questions—The Kjölen Fjeldene||202|
|Esmeralda at the lake—Our cadeau—The visitors—Disappointment—An Adonis—The silent visit—The old mill—A Norwegian fox—The Puru Rawnee’s fall—The forest scene—Zachariah’s torment—Under discipline—Music in the forest—Distant admirers—The English hunter’s gift—Our gipsies fishing—The militia camp—Silent visitor—Ornamental fladbröd—A forest concert||213|
|Noah unwell—The tine—New scenes—The leper—Hasty departure—Lesjevœrks Vand—Well met—Agreeable wanderers—Specialty of travel—Delicious trout—Lake scenery—Norwegian postman—Night visitor—More tourists—Molmen church||227|
|The Rauma—A lofty climb—More rain—The forest walk—Tent life—Peasant fête—Norwegian dancing—Zachariah’s ride—The wood carvings—A psalmodion—Stueflaaten—The Romsdal—Magnificent scenery—English spoken||237|
|The Dontind—Ormein—Mountain road—Our bivouac—Delighted visitor—The water elf—Excited gipsies—Tage en Stol—Norwegian girls—Sunday on the Rauma—Carriole travelling—Coming to grief—“Spille” a little—Esmeralda’s birthday—The xiii Norwegian climate—The Sjiriaglns—Uncomfortable bed—The large ant||248|
|Musical peasant—Cascades—The leaning-stone—The serious peasant—Zachariah ill—No ventilation—The Magician’s Peaks—The Mangehöe—“Ramulous”—Romantic valley—Agreeable visitors—The serenade—Future route—Horgheim—Rip van Winkle||261|