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Roaming Through the West Indies

Roaming Through the West Indies
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Title: Roaming Through the West Indies
Release Date: 2018-11-17
Type book: Text
Copyright Status: Public domain in the USA.
Date added: 27 March 2019
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Transcriber’s Note:

The cover image was created by the transcriber and is placed in the public domain.

Shade-grown tobacco in Porto Rico

ROAMING THROUGH THE WEST INDIES

BY
HARRY A. FRANCK
Author of “A Vagabond Journey Around the World,” “Zone Policeman 88,” “Vagabonding Down the Andes,” etc., etc.
ILLUSTRATED WITH PHOTOGRAPHS
BY THE AUTHOR
NEW YORK
THE CENTURY CO.
1920
Copyright, 1920, by
The Century Co.
TO
MY WIFE, RACHEL,
WITH WHOM THIS WAS THE BEGINNING
OF A FAR LONGER JOURNEY, AND
TO
MY SON, HARRY,
WHO JOINED US ON THE WAY
vii

FOREWARNING

Some years ago I made a tramping trip around the world for my ownpleasure. Friends coaxed me to set it down on paper and new friendswere kind enough to read it. Since then they have demanded more—atleast so the publishers say—but always specifying that it shall be onfoot. Now, I refuse to be dictated to as to how I shall travel; I willnot be bullied into tramping when I wish to ride. The journey herewithset forth is, therefore, among other things, a physical protestagainst that attempted coercion, a proof that I do not need to walkunless I choose to do so. To make broken resolutions impossible, Ipicked out a trip that could not be done on foot. It would be difficultindeed to walk through the West Indies. Then, to make doubly sure,I took with me a newly acquired wife—and we brought back a newlyacquired son, though that has nothing to do with the present story.

I will not go so far as to say that I abjured footing it entirely. As afurther proof of personal liberty I walked when and where the spiritmoved me—and the element underfoot was willing. But I wish itdistinctly understood from the outset that this is no “walking trip.”Once having broken the friends who flatter me with their attention ofexpecting me to confine myself to the prehistoric form of locomotion—Ishall probably take to the road again to relieve a chronic foot-itch.

The following pages do not pretend to “cover” the West Indies.They are made up of the random pickings of an eight-months’ tour ofthe Antilles, during which every island of importance was visited, butthey are put together rather for the entertainment of the armchairtraveler than for the information of the traveler in the flesh. While thelatter may find in them some points to jot down in his itinerary, heshould depend rather on the several thorough and orderly books thathave been written for his special benefit.

Harry A. Franck.
ix

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER   PAGE
 
I Overland to the West Indies 3
 
 
THE AMERICAN WEST INDIES
 
II Random Sketches of Havana 25
 
III Cuba from West to East 50
 
IV The World’s Sugar-Bowl 76
 
V Under the Palm-Tree of Haiti 106
 
VI The Death of Charlemagne 128
 
VII Hither and Yon in the Haitian Bush 149
 
VIII The Land of Bullet-Holes 189
 
IX Travels in the Cibao 207
 
X Santo Domingo Under American Rule 229
 
XI Our Porto Rico 256
 
XII Wandering About Borinquen 280
 
XIII In and About Our Virgin Islands 304
 
 
THE BRITISH WEST INDIES
 
XIV The Caribbee Islands 339
 
XV Little England 360
 
XVI Trinidad, the Land of Asphalt 381
 
XVII African Jamaica 403
 
 
THE FRENCH WEST INDIES AND THE OTHERS
 
XVIII Guadeloupe and Dependencies 439
 
XIX Rambles in Martinique 449
 
XX Odds and Ends in the Caribbean 475
xi

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Shade-grown tobacco in Porto Rico Frontispiece
 
FACING PAGE
 
St. Augustine, Florida, from the old Spanish fortress 16
 
A policeman of Havana 16
 
Cuba’s new presidential palace 17
 
Venders of lottery tickets in rural Cuba 32
 
The winning numbers of the lottery 32
 
Pigeons are kept to clear the tobacco fields of insects 33
 
Ploughing for tobacco in the famous Vuelta Abajo district. The large building is a tobacco barn, the small ones are residences of the planters 33
 
A Cuban shoemaker 56
 
Cuban soldiers 56
 
Matanzas, with drying sisal fiber in the foreground 57
 
The Central Plaza of Cienfuegos 57
 
A principal street of Santa Clara 64
 
The Central Plaza of Santa Clara 64
 
A dairyman, Santa Clara district 65
 
Cuban town scenery 65
 
A Cuban residence in a new clearing 114
 
Planting sugar-cane on newly cleared land 114
 
Hauling cane to a Cuban sugar-mill 115
 
A station of a Cuban pack train 115
 
Cuban travelers 80
 
A Cuban milkman 80
 
A street of Santiago de Cuba 81
 
Not all Chinamen succeed in Cuba 81
 
The entire enlisted personnel of the Haitian Navy 112
 
A school in Port au Prince 112
 
The central square and Cathedral of Port au Prince on market day 113
 
Looking down upon the market from the cathedral platform 113
 
A Haitian gendarme 128
 
The president of Haiti 128
 
xiiA street in Port au Prince 129
 
The unfinished presidential palace of Haiti, on New Year’s Day, 1920 129
 
A Haitian country home 144
 
A small portion of one collection of captured caco war material 144
 
The caco in the foreground killed an American Marine 145
 
Captain Hanneken and “General Jean” Conzé at Christophe’s Citadel 145
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