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Sun and Shadow in Spain

Sun and Shadow in Spain
Title: Sun and Shadow in Spain
Release Date: 2018-12-13
Type book: Text
Copyright Status: Public domain in the USA.
Date added: 27 March 2019
Count views: 101
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Author of “Roma Beata,” “Two in Italy,” Etc.

Copyright, 1908,
By Little, Brown, and Company.
All rights reserved
Published November, 1908
The Tudor Press
This Book
Affectionately Dedicated


On the silver sands of First Beach in the Island of Rhode Island,children were at play digging foundations, raising fortifications,laying out the parks and streets of a city. They worked long and hard;time was short, and the tide was coming in. Each wave, as it hissed andbroke upon the beach, sent its thin line of foam a little nearer thebrave outer wall of the town. Then came the inevitable inundation; thechildren shrieked with glee as the city wall crumbled, the churchsteeple toppled down, the courthouse collapsed. When nothing of thethriving sand city remained, save its trees and flowers,—floatingbunches of red and green seaweed—the children, tired with much digging,sat down and looked across the water.

“What is over there?” asked the youngest, pointing an uncertain fingerto the East.

“That is the Atlantic Ocean,” answered the eldest, “the nearest land isthe coast of Spain.”

“When I grow up I shall go there,” said the youngest, “to see whatSpain is like.”

After many years the child sailed across the Atlantic from the NewWorld to the Old, passed between the Pillars of Hercules, through the“southern entrance of the ocean,” and landed on the Rock of{viii} Gibraltar.Sitting there by the lighthouse of Europa Point, and looking back acrossthe waste of waters, the child had a vision of the city on the sands.This Rock, this last spur of Europe, how many sand cities has it seenwashed away by the tides of time? The Calpe of the Phœnicians, the Jebelal Tarac of the Arabs, the Gibraltar of the Spaniards. Where QueenAdelaide’s lighthouse now sends its ray of light out into the darkness,the famous shrine of the Virgen de Europa once stood. Here, once upon atime, Jupiter, in the shape of a milk-white bull, plunged into the seawith the lovely Europa on his back, and swam with her to Crete, whereshe became the mother of Minos, whose ruined palace has just beendiscovered in that wonderful island of Crete. The land, more steadfastthan the sea, keeps in its breast some of the things men prize most. Inthe palace of Minos they found a small, finely modeled, gold figure of aman with a bull’s head, cast in memory of the son of Jupiter and thelovely Europa.

As the stars pricked out from the blue, the child perceived they werethe stars she knew at home, and that the constellation of Taurus wasvisible,—Taurus, the bull, still the animal of worship and of sacrificein the Peninsula.

“When I have seen what Spain is like, I will tell the other childrenabout it,” said the child; then she took out the guidebook and openedthe map.{ix}


I.The Thorn in Spain’s Side 1
II.A Sibyl of Ronda27
III.The White Veil58
IV.The Black Veil82
V.Seville Fair109
VI.A House in Seville136
XI.The Prado279
XIV.The Bride Comes343
XV.The King’s Wedding364
XVI.Wedding Guests373
XVII.Hasta Otra Vista393



The Arab Quarter, Tangiers.COLORED FRONTISPIECE
Our Lady of O., Seville58
Seville Cathedral64
Entrance to Court of Oranges, Seville68
The Sculptor Martinez Montanes72
In the Prado Museum.
Portrait of Montanes’ Son72
In the Prado Museum.
Portrait of Philip II. Coello85
In the possession of John Elliott.
Portrait of Velasquez, by Himself. Detail of“Las Meninas”96
In the Prado Museum.
Portrait of His Wife. Velasquez96
In the Prado Museum.
The Giralda, Seville107
Spanish Gypsies122
St. Joseph and the Infant Jesus. Murillo164
In the Provincial Museum, Seville.
The Guardian Angel. Murillo164
In the Cathedral, Seville.{xii}
The Mosque, Cordova167
The Mosque, Cordova188
La Puerta del Sol, Toledo188
Gate of Justice, Alhambra. In color195
Court of Lions, The Alhambra196
Garden of the Generalife, Granada196
Window, Tower of the Captive, Alhambra199
Gypsies of Granada203
La Puerto del Vino, Granada207
A Court of the Alhambra207
Retablo, Carved in High and Low Relief. Roldan211
Moorish Columns in the Alhambra214
Tangiers. In color218
Street in Tangiers226
Spanish Peasants232
Ali and Zuleika232
Detail from “The Maids of Honor.” Velasquez259
In the Prado Museum.
Detail from “The Surrender of Breda.” Velasquez279
In the Prado Museum.
The Tipplers. Velasquez282
In the Prado Museum.
The Duke of Olivares. Velasquez285
In the Prado Museum.
Venus and Cupid. Velasquez288
{xiii}National Museum.
Don Baltasar Carlos. Velasquez291
In the Prado Museum.
Detail from “Moses.” Murillo300
In the Prado Museum.
Detail from “Moses.” Murillo308
In the Prado Museum.
Toledo by Moonlight. In color326
Detail from “The Burial of Count Orgaz.”Greco341
Villegas in his Studio376
The Spinners. Velasquez379
In the Prado Museum.
The Dogaressa. Villegas394
In the possession of Mrs. Larz Anderson.
The Death of the Matador. Villegas398
In the possession of the artist.
Imperio. Villegas408
In the possession of Miss Dorothy Whitney.




IF€ you will look at the general map of Spain and Portugal, you will seethat the outlines of the Peninsula suggest the head of a man—a broad,square head, with a high forehead and plenty of room for a large brain.The profile, lying sharply cut on the blue Atlantic, shows a crest ofdisordered hair, a slightly swelling forehead, a long, sensitive,aristocratic nose with a sharply cut nostril, firm lips set closetogether, a fine chin tapering to a small pointed beard, a slightfulness under the chin; the throat, set well back and surrounded by ablue collar—the Straits of Gibraltar—joins the head to theshoulders—the continent of Africa. The more you look at the face, themore certain you become that it is a familiar one, that it is the faceof one you hold dear, till at last complete recognition flashes uponyou; it is the face of Don Quixote{2} de la Mancha! Look again; it is aface such as Velasquez painted, not once, but many times; it is thetypical Spanish face, proud, high-bred, reserved.

So you need not land alone and unwelcomed upon the shore of fabledHispagna, now looming dim and blue upon the horizon, now growingdistinct and green. Two great spirits, Cervantes and Velasquez, come tomeet you! Their hands are stretched out to you; if you so elect, theywill walk with you in all your wanderings, and with their help you shallknow Spain.

Gibraltar, a lion couchant, head on paws, fronts the sea. Cross the bayfrom Algeciras, the lion rears its head—a lion no longer—the pillar ofthe coast of Europe, blue at first, then purple; when you are close inits shadow you look up at a grim gray mountain towering above you. Itgreets you like an old friend. You have known it under many names; firstas Calpe under its first master, Hercules, for that glorious old fellow,the first “Great African Traveler,” was here. Wishing to show othertravelers who should come after that the “inner seas,” where it was safeto sail, ended here, he took up a mountain and tore it in two to makethe bounds; half he set down in Africa, on the south, half in Europe, onthe north. These are the Columns of Hercules; the African column isAbyle; the European, Calpe.{3}

Ne plus ultra,” said Hercules, as he wrapped his lion’s skin abouthim and set sail for Libya to call on Atlas. Every time you write thesign for the dollar ($) you draw the Columns of Hercules and the scrollfor his parting words, “Ne plus ultra.

Carthage was here! The poor Carthaginians built a tower on Calpe, towatch for the dreaded Roman galleys sweeping down from Ostia, while inRome’s senate implacable Cato thundered his eternal “Delenda estCarthago.” Of course the Romans were here,—it is impossible to escapethem; wherever you travel in Europe or Africa you are always meetingthose grave ghosts!

Tarik was here; he and his Berbers, sailing over from Morocco, landed onCalpe, and built a magnificent castle fortress to protect their retreatand keep open the way back to Africa. Moors and Berbers made a long stayin Europe; they held the Rock seven hundred years, until Moor andMahomet were driven out by Ferdinand and Isabel,—a service Spain holdsthe Christian world has too soon forgotten. A pitiful flying remnant ofthe Moors of Granada took ship at Gibraltar and sailed back to Morocco,leaving behind them the imperishable Legacy of the Moor, taking withthem the keys of their houses in that lost paradise, Granada. SinceTarik landed, the Rock has stood{4} fourteen sieges, has passed frommaster to master, but this is still the Hill of Tarik (Jebel Tarik),though we pronounce it Gibraltar.

So, coming after Hercules, Carthage, Rome, Tarik, we are here! We landedat night. As we passed down the steamer’s companionway to the tug, theKaiser roared a hoarse farewell, her screw beat the “inner sea” to awhite lather. From the upper deck a girl’s handkerchief fluttered, aman’s voice cried “Good luck!” Two thousand Italian steerage passengers,the menace and amusement of the voyage, chaffed and laughed at us fromthe lower deck. For nine days

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