The North Devon Coast

The North Devon Coast
Title: The North Devon Coast
Release Date: 2019-01-27
Type book: Text
Copyright Status: Public domain in the USA.
Date added: 27 March 2019
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Transcriber’s Note

Text on cover added by Transcriber and placed in the Public Domain.

THE NORTH DEVON COAST

WORKS BY CHARLES G. HARPER

The Portsmouth Road, and its Tributaries: To-day and in Daysof Old.

The Dover Road: Annals of an Ancient Turnpike.

The Bath Road: History, Fashion, and Frivolity on an OldHighway.

The Exeter Road: The Story of the West of England Highway.

The Great North Road: The Old Mail Road to Scotland. TwoVols.

The Norwich Road: An East Anglian Highway.

The Holyhead Road: The Mail-Coach Road to Dublin. TwoVols.

The Cambridge, Ely, and King’s Lynn Road: The GreatFenland Highway.

The Newmarket, Bury, Thetford, and Cromer Road: Sportand History on an East Anglian Turnpike.

The Oxford, Gloucester, and Milford Haven Road: TheReady Way to South Wales. Two Vols.

The Brighton Road: Speed, Sport, and History on the ClassicHighway.

The Hastings Road and the “Happy Springs of Tunbridge.”

Cycle Rides Round London.

A Practical Handbook of Drawing for Modern Methods ofReproduction.

Stage-Coach and Mail in Days of Yore. Two Vols.

The Ingoldsby Country: Literary Landmarks of “The IngoldsbyLegends.”

The Hardy Country: Literary Landmarks of the Wessex Novels.

The Dorset Coast.

The South Devon Coast.

The Old Inns of Old England. Two Vols.

Love in the Harbour: a Longshore Comedy.

Rural Nooks Round London (Middlesex and Surrey).

The Manchester and Glasgow Road; This way to GretnaGreen. Two Vols.

Haunted Houses; Tales of the Supernatural.

The Somerset Coast. [In the Press.

E. D. Percival

[Ilfracombe.

LYNMOUTH, FROM THE BEACH.


THE NORTH DEVON
COAST

BY
CHARLES G. HARPER

“Let us, in God’s name, adventure one voyage more,always with this caution, that you be pleased totolerate my vulgar phrase, and to pardon me if, inkeeping the plain highway, I use a plain low phrase;and in rough, rugged and barren places, rude, rustic,and homely terms.”—Thomas Westcote, 1620.

Mermaid on a sea-horse

London: CHAPMAN & HALL, Ltd.
1908


PRINTED AND BOUND BY
HAZELL, WATSON AND VINEY, LD.,
LONDON AND AYLESBURY.


vii

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I
  PAGE
INTRODUCTORY 1
CHAPTER II
LYNMOUTH 9
CHAPTER III
LYNTON—THE WICHEHALSE FAMILY, IN FICTION AND IN FACT 21
CHAPTER IV
THE COAST, TO COUNTISBURY AND GLENTHORNE 35
CHAPTER V
THE NORTH WALK—THE VALLEY OF ROCKS—LEE “ABBEY”—WOODA BAY—HEDDON’S MOUTH—TRENTISHOE—THE HANGMAN HILLS 44
CHAPTER VIviii
COMBEMARTIN, AND ITS OLD SILVER MINES—THE CHURCH—WATERMOUTH CASTLE—HELE 71
CHAPTER VII
“’COMBE” IN HISTORY—MODERN ’COMBE—THE OLD CHURCH 84
CHAPTER VIII
LUNDY—HISTORY OF THE ISLAND—WRECK OF THE “MONTAGU”—LUNDY OFFERED AT AUCTION—DESCRIPTION 106
CHAPTER IX
CHAMBERCOMBE AND ITS “HAUNTED HOUSE”—BERRYNARBOR 123
CHAPTER X
LEE—MORTE POINT—MORTHOE AND THE TRACY LEGEND—WOOLACOMBE—GEORGEHAM—CROYDE—SAUNTON SANDS—BRAUNTON, BRAUNTON BURROWS, AND LIGHTHOUSE 131
CHAPTER XIix
PILTON—BARNSTAPLE BRIDGE—OLD COUNTRY WAYS—BARUM—HISTORY AND COMMERCIAL IMPORTANCE—OLD HOUSES—“SEVEN BRETHREN BANK”—FREMINGTON—INSTOW AND THE LOVELY TORRIDGE 155
CHAPTER XII
KINGSLEY AND “WESTWARD HO!”—BIDEFORD BRIDGE—THE GRENVILLES—SIR RICHARD GRENVILLE AND THE “REVENGE”—THE ARMADA GUNS—BIDEFORD CHURCH—THE POSTMAN POET 177
CHAPTER XIII
THE KINGSLEY STATUE—NORTHAM—“BLOODY CORNER”—APPLEDORE—WESTWARD HO! AND THE PEBBLE RIDGE 197
CHAPTER XIV
ABBOTSHAM—“WOOLSERY”—BUCK’S MILL 205
CHAPTER XV
CLOVELLY—“UP ALONG” AND “DOWN ALONG”—THE “NEW INN”—APPRECIATIVE AMERICANS—THE QUAY POOL—THE HERRING FISHERY 208
CHAPTER XVIx
MOUTH MILL AND BLACK CHURCH ROCK—THE COAST TO HARTLAND—HARTLAND POINT—HARTLAND ABBEY—HARTLAND QUAY 224
INDEX 245

xi

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Lynmouth, from the Beach Frontispiece
  PAGE
Map of North Devon Coast 1
Headpiece 1
Watersmeet 6
Lynmouth and the Tors, from the Beach 12
Lyndale Bridge 17
Lynmouth, from the Tors Hotel 18
Lynton 24
The “Blue Ball” 37
Glenthorne 42
The Valley of Rocks 47
Lee “Abbey” 53
Wooda Bay 59
Heddon’s Mouth 62
“Hunter’s Inn” 64
Trentishoe Church 66
The “Pack of Cards,” Combemartin 73
Combemartin Church 77
Great Hangman Hill, and Entrance to Combemartin Harbour 80
Widemouth Bay 81xii
Capstone Hill and the Concert Parties 84
In the Harbour, Ilfracombe 89
Lantern Hill, Ilfracombe 90
Ilfracombe 100
Ilfracombe Church-tower 103
Lundy 107
The Landing-place, Lundy 111
The Montagu, on the Shutter Rock 117
The last of the Montagu, August, 1907 118
Chambercombe 125
The “Haunted House” of Chambercombe 127
Morthoe 135
Braunton Church 147
Sir John Schorne and his Devil 148
Braunton Burrows 150
Braunton Lighthouse 153
The Jester’s Head 156
Pulpit and Hour-glass, Pilton 157
An Old Door, Barnstaple 165
Old Room in the “Trevelyan Arms” 167
“Queen Anne’s Walk” 168
Barnstaple Church and Grammar School 170
The “Kingsley Room,” Royal Hotel, Bideford 178
Seal of Bideford 182
Bideford Bridge 183
Bideford Quay 191
“Bloody Corner” 199
Clovelly, from Buck’s Mill 206xiii
Clovelly, from the Hobby Drive 209
“Up-along,” Clovelly 213
Sign of the “New Inn,” Clovelly 216
A Clovelly Donkey 218
“Temple Bar” 219
The Quay, Clovelly 220
Back of the “Red Lion,” Clovelly 221
Clovelly, from the Sea 225
Clovelly Church 226
Black Church Rock 227
Hartland Point 229
Hartland Quay 237
Speke’s Mouth 238
At Marsland Mouth 243
Map of the North Devon Coast
The North Devon Coast
(Larger)

1

Figurehead: well-dressed English Lady

THE
North Devon
Coast

CHAPTER I
INTRODUCTORY

No one can, with advantage, explore the ruggedcoast of North Devon by progressing direct fromthe point where it begins and so continuing, withoutonce harking back. The scenery is exceptionallybold and fine, and the tracing of the actualcoast-line by consequence a matter of no littledifficulty. Only the pedestrian can see this coastas a whole, and even he needs to be blessed withpowers

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