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An Englishwoman in the Philippines

An Englishwoman in the Philippines
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Title: An Englishwoman in the Philippines
Release Date: 2019-02-11
Type book: Text
Copyright Status: Public domain in the USA.
Date added: 27 March 2019
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[i]

AN ENGLISHWOMAN IN THE PHILIPPINES


[ii]

First Edition July 1906

Reprinted October 1906


[iii]

AN ENGLISHWOMAN
IN THE
PHILIPPINES

BY MRS CAMPBELL DAUNCEY

WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP

NEW YORK
E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY
1906

[iv]

Printed in Great Britain


[v]

INTRODUCTION

In the following letters, written during a stay ofnine months in the Philippine Islands, I tried toconvey to those at home a faithful impression ofthe country I was in and the people I met. SinceI came home I have been advised to collect andprepare certain of my letters for publication, andthis I have done to the best of my ability, thoughwith considerable misgivings as to the fate of sucha humble little volume.

It is impossible to mention the PhilippineIslands, either in daily life in the country itself,or in describing such life, without reference to thepolitical situations which form the topic of mostconversations in that uneasy land. On this subjectalso I wrote to the best of my power, faithfullyand impartially; for I hold no brief for theAmericans or the Filipinos. I merely aimed at aplain account of those scenes and conversations,generally written within a few hours of myobserving them, which, it seemed to me, wouldbest convey a true and unbiassed impression ofwhat I saw of the Philippines as they are.

[vi]


[vii]

CONTENTS

PAGE
LETTER I.
MANILA
Journey from Hong Kong. First sight of the Philippine coast. Manila Bay. The Pasig River. A drive through the streets. Old Manila. Spanish influences. Manila hotels. The Virgin of Antipolo. Inter-island steamers. 1
LETTER II.
FROM MANILA TO ILOILO
Beautiful islands. Coin divers. A glimpse of Cebú. The hemp industry. The Island of Mactan. Magellan. A curious record in orthography. Fellow-passengers. Soldiers and school-teachers. American theories. Social and racial equality. The Filipino race. 8
LETTER III.
FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF ILOILO
Arrival at Iloilo. Situation of Guimaras and Negros. The Island of Panay. Climate. House-hunting. Native methods. Conant coinage. Philippine houses. 15
[viii]LETTER IV.
A PHILIPPINE HOUSE—AMERICAN PRICES—NATIVE SERVANTS—FURNITURE
We find a house. Domestic architecture. The Azotea. Results of American extravagance. Iloilo shops. Filipino servants. Settling down. Chinese shops. Furniture. “Philippines for the Filipinos.” Rumours of the Custom House. 22
LETTER V.
HOUSEKEEPING IN ILOILO
Housekeeping. Strange insects. Chinese bread. The washerwoman. Domestic etiquette. A hawker of orchids. 33
LETTER VI.
A WASTED LAND
The road to Molo. Picturesque scenes. Custom House methods. An unpleasant surprise. Philippine trading firms. An over-zealous law. The Philippine bed. Christmas Eve. The tropic dawn. Christmas Day. The water-supply. Food and drink. Scarcity and high prices. Book-learning versus agriculture. 42
LETTER VII.
CUSTOMS AND DRESS OF THE NATIVES
A Filipino Fiesta. The national hero. Doctor Rizal and his work. A languid festival. A musical people. Dress of the native women. Piña muslin. Dress of native men. Scrupulous cleanliness. A walk on the beach. Gorgeous colouring. 50
[ix]LETTER VIII.
SOCIAL AMUSEMENTS
A ball at the Spanish Club. The Rigodon. Curious costumes. Bringing in the New Year. A painful interlude. Position of Eurasians. New Year’s Day. The suburbs of Iloilo. Filipino children. 57
LETTER IX.
TARIFFS—INSECTS
More Custom House surprises. Official blunders. House-lizards. Roof-menageries. Anting-anting. Snakes. Cicadas. Ants. Cockroaches. Mosquitoes. 66
LETTER X.
A FILIPINO THEATRE—CARABAOS
Dramatic clubs. The Iloilo theatre. An amusing experience. An operetta. The Jaro road. Carabaos. An evening scene by the river. The fashionable paseo. 74
LETTER XI.
SOME RESULTS OF THE AMERICAN OCCUPATION
Heat and drought. Bathrooms. A handsome cow-boy. Cost of living. Military manners. Camp Josman. The Government of the Philippines. A “pull.” An arbitrary tax. The Plaza Libertad. Effects of fire and bombardment. Story of the American occupation. Unwelcome saviours. A pretty garden. The “unemployed.” Scale of wages. A Philippine cabstand. Filipino dignity. A charming scene. 82
[x]LETTER XII.
CHINESE NEW YEAR—LABOUR CONDITIONS—A CINÉMATOGRAPH SHOW
The Chinese New Year. Question of Chinese labour. A cinématograph entertainment. Unpleasant habits. An interesting audience. Diplomatic warfare. A half “’cute” native. A Filipino philosopher. Tropical rain. 95
LETTER XIII.
SOME INFLUENCES OF CLIMATE, SCENERY, AND RELIGION
The Rainbow. Sugar industry. A beautiful view. Unchanging charms. “Always afternoon.” The fascination of the East. Missionaries. A keen advocate. La Iglesia Filipina Independiente. 103
LETTER XIV.
VOYAGE TO MANILA
A journey to Manila. The mail steamer. Food for Esquimaux. A comfortable night. Dream Islands. Dress for Europeans. Manila. The harbour. Curious reasoning. American hustling. A charming house. The Luneta. 110
LETTER XV.
AN OFFICIAL ENTERTAINMENT
Evening on the Pasig River. Malacañan Palace. An evening fête. The Arms of the Philippines. “The Gubernatorial party.” “Manila at a glance.” The Gibson Girl. An amusing episode. A drive in Manila. The fashions. Manila shops. A market for the best diamonds. A “mixed” wedding. 120
[xi]LETTER XVI.
MANILA AND ITS INHABITANTS
The suburbs of Manila. Hawks. A nursery-garden. Orchids. By the bandstand in the evening. Manila society. A city of cards. Intramuros. Americanised Filipinos. The American Ideal. Blind pride. Bilibid prison. Arts and crafts. The “Exposition” and the inquiring voter. The Philippine sky. A steamer on fire. A procession of death and degradation. “Sport.” A visit to Malacañan. A beautiful woman. Some lovely embroideries. Manila prices. Mr Taft and his Chinese servants. 128
LETTER XVII.
DEMOCRACY AND SOCIETY IN MANILA
A Mestizo party. Seeking for democracy. And finding aristocracy. A shopping expedition. Chinese enterprise. Bridge again. A devotee and enthusiast. 143
LETTER XVIII.
THE RETURN VOYAGE AND MY COMPANIONS
Home letters. The Simla of Manila. The return journey to Iloilo. A crowded ship. My cabin-mate. Filipino schoolboys. The first-fruits of the American Ideal. Filipino manners. Some Filipino views. Philippine Spanish. Dawn at the mouth of the Iloilo River. Expensive religion. Wonderful costumes. Lax port authorities. A hearty welcome home. 151
[xii]LETTER XIX.
A BAILE—A NEW COOK AND AMERICAN METHODS
Carnival festivities. Lenten relaxations. A Palais Royale farce at the Filipino Club. “Hiawatha.” At a baile. A walk through the town. A Chinese graveyard. A troublesome cook. Wily native ways. A change of staff. Municipal marvels. Noblesse oblige. 161
LETTER XX.
FILIPINO INDOLENCE—A DROUGHT
The rising thermometer. A Filipino watering-cart. A harrowing story. The Filipino employé. Mañana.
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