The Charm of Scandinavia
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Title: The Charm of Scandinavia
Author: Francis Edward Clark and Sydney Clark
Release Date: May 6, 2018 [eBook #57106]
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THE CHARM OF SCANDINAVIA
Frontispiece. See page 314.
FRANCIS E. CLARK
SYDNEY A. CLARK
LITTLE, BROWN, AND COMPANY
By Little, Brown, and Company.
All rights reserved
F. E. C.
S. A. C.
While this book is largely based upon personalobservation in the countries described, the authorshave taken pains to consult many recent andsome older authors who have written about Scandinavia,that they might become familiar with the history andcustoms of the countries which a traveler could nototherwise so readily understand.
Among these authorities may be mentioned Paul DuChaillu’s work on “The Viking Age”; Boyesen’s “Historyof Norway” in the “Story of the Nations” series,a most excellent and informing book, as interestingas it is accurate; Goodman’s “The Best Tour in Norway”;F. M. Butlin’s recent valuable book, “Amongthe Danes”; “Swedish Life in Town and Country,” byOscar G. von Heidenstam; Emil Svenson, Holger Rosman,Gunnar Anderson, and C. G. Lawins, who havecombined to write a handbook about Sweden’s history,industries, social systems, art, etc.
We should like to acknowledge especial indebtednessto a book by Hon. W. W. Thomas, entitled “Swedenand the Swedes.” No American has written so sympatheticallyabout the Swedes from a long and intimateknowledge of them as Mr. Thomas, who as Consul,United States Minister, and private citizen has spentnearly half a century among them. This book, like[viii]Ernest Young’s admirable volume on Finland, has beenused chiefly, as have the other authorities, to confirm,modify, or correct our own impressions.
Since this book is the result of more than one journeythroughout the length and breadth of Scandinavia, thedates appended to the different letters do not necessarilyrefer to the time they were written, but ratherto the season and the part of the country described.
In all essential particulars the book is a record ofthe actual experiences that brought the authors underthe spell of Scandinavia. They hope this story of thesturdy, liberty-loving peoples may impart to the readersomething of the same charm.
F. E. C.
S. A. C.
BY WAY OF EXPLANATION
(An introduction which the authors, earnestly but withbecoming modesty, ask their readers to peruse, thatthe scheme of the book may be understood.)
Phillips and Aylmer had engagements which requiredthem to take long journeys in Sweden andNorway, Denmark and Finland, and a friendly discussionarose as to the relative beauties and merits of thesecountries. Aylmer upheld the charms of Norway andDenmark with youthful vehemence, and Phillips, withequal vigor, asserted the superiority of Sweden andFinland. Judicia, to whom they appealed, suggestedthat each one, while on his journey, write her full andinteresting accounts of the things in Scandinavia thatcharmed them most, and she would then render herdecision. But, the letters written, she begged thequestion by proposing that the letters be published,and each reader decide for himself. The writers agreed,and “The Charm of Scandinavia” is the result.
|Phillips Writes of Sweden and Finland||1|
|Aylmer Writes of Norway and Denmark||175|
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
|The Old Borgund Stave-kirke||Frontispiece|
|Map of Scandinavia||1|
|Skikjoring, a Highly Enjoyable Sport||8|
|Skate Sailing, a Favorite Sport in Sweden||8|
|The Royal Palace, Stockholm||16|
|Tea House on Banks of Mälar||20|
|Some Girls of Dalecarlia||34|
|Where Gustavus Adolphus Rests among Hard-Won Battle Flags||42|
|A Typical Swedish Landscape in Winter||46|
|Reindeer and Lapps from North Sweden||66|
|Lion-Guarded Statue of Charles XIII, in King’s Garden, Stockholm||74|
|The Castle at Upsala||86|
|The Locks, Borenshult, Göta Canal||96|
|The Gorge of the Göta at Trölhatten||100|
|Ruins of St. Nikolaus Cathedral, Visby, Gotland||110|
|Interior of a Finnish Cottage||136|
|In Finnish Lakeland||144|
|In Eastern Finland||150|
|Fish Harbor, Helsingfors||164|
|Watch Parade in Amalienborg Square||196|
|[xiv]The Splendor of Tivoli on a Gala Night in Summer||196|
|Frederiksborg Castle, Copenhagen||208|
|On the Sognefjord||256|
|The Railroad between Bergen and Christiania||268|
|Bergen, Northeast from Laksevaag||278|
|Across the Glassy Geirangerfjord||286|
|German Battleships in Norwegian Waters||292|
|Fishermen Arranging their Nets at Balestrand on the Sognefjord||300|
|Three Little Belles of the Arctic at Tromsö||304|
|The Hardanger Glacier and Rembesdal Lake||308|
|View from Hammerfest||310|
THE CHARM OF SCANDINAVIA
PHILLIPS WRITES OF SWEDEN AND FINLAND
In which Phillips descants on his route to Scandinavia from Berlin;on the gastronomic delights of a Swedish railway restaurant; onthe lavish comfort and economy as well as the safety of travelin Sweden; on the quiet charms of the scenery in southernSweden, as well as on the well-earned social position and independenceof the Swedish farmer.
Stockholm, January 1.
My dear Judicia,
You have brought this upon yourself, you know, forit was your proposition that Aylmer and I should tryto make you feel the charm of Scandinavia as we havefelt it. But do not suppose that we are going to enterupon a contest of wits in order to make our respectivecountries shine upon the written page, or that we aregoing to indulge in high-flown descriptions. We shalltry to tell you of things as we see them; of the peasantin his low-thatched roof, who is as interesting as theking in his palace. We may not even think it beneathour dignity to tell you of the Smörgåsbörd, and of thedifferent kinds of cheese of many colors which gracethe breakfast table, for all these different, homely, commonplacethings enter into the spell of Scandinavia.
As you know, we started on this long northern journeyat Berlin. This trip has been robbed of all its terrors,since keen competition has compelled the railway andsteamboat companies to exchange the little Dampfschiff,little bigger than tugboats, which used to connect Germanywith Scandinavia, for great ferry steamers, whichtake within their capacious maws whole railway trains,so that now we can go to sleep in Berlin, in a very comfortablesofwagn, and wake up the next morning onSwedish soil, with no consciousness of the fact that inthe middle of the night we had a four hours’ voyageacross a bit of blue sea which is often as stormy as thebroad Atlantic itself.
You remember that I wrote you about a formerjourney across this same bit of water during an equinoctialgale, how our boat was tossed about like a cork,how the port was stove in, and I was washed out of mybunk. Well, last night I was reminded of that formerjourney by contrast, for I never knew when we weretrundled aboard ship at Sassnitz, or when we weretrundled on to